Let me tell you a thing. If you’ve read all of my posts, I think there are a few where I mention I don’t know how I got hired at Sephora. When I first started nearly 3 years ago, I didn’t contour or highlight, I didn’t wear blush, false lashes were foreign to me, and I did not. fuck. with. my eyebrows. And that was a big mistake on my part because they were not cute. Now, eyebrows are my thing. They are what I worked so hard to perfect because eyebrows shape the face. You can have the world’s most crisp cut crease done by Sam Fine himself (one of the world’s highest paid makeup artists) but if your brows are sad little caterpillars, nothing else will save your look. So lets talk about brows and how to fill them in and the different styles of brows. I’ll break it down by brow style and how to achieve the look. I’m going to follow the four brow styles that I was taught in a Benefit brow master class a few weeks ago. But first, a quick guideline to follow when doing any of these brow techniques:
Note: you do not have to follow this chart. This is simply a guideline for those who don’t know where brows should generally begin, end, and arch.
Bold “Instagram” Brow
This type of brow was very popular in 2016 and into 2017. It’s still a very popular brow style today. This style is very sharp and full towards the tail and fades towards the front. This brow can be achieved by nearly anyone, regardless of how full your real brows are. This is because you are going to be filling in most of the brow quite heavily, and that is the easiest style to ‘fake’ if your brows are naturally sparse. The only thing that is required for this style is groomed brow hairs – nicely trimmed, no stray hairs, and somewhat of an arched shape to follow.
Now for the product. I’m sure most of you have heard of Anastasia Beverly Hills – the brow queen and the go-to when it comes to the Instagram brow for her product called dipbrow. Dipbrow is a potted brow product similar to gel eyeliner. This, and a very thin angled brush (love the Anastasia #15), are what you will need to achieve this look. All you are going to do is outline the entire bottom of the brow following the natural shape, and then outlining the sharp arch along the top, connecting the tail. Next, fill in the tail quite opaque, and begin using a lighter hand the closer to the front you get. Once you get to the front, begin using the point of the angled brush to do upward strokes, mimicking the upward growing hair at the front of the brow. If you want to ensure your brow is as sharp as an actual knife, use concealer and a small brush to clean up the edges. This brow is the one that takes the most time, but can make any full-glam look come to life.
This brow is one of my favourite styles that I wish I could pull off. It is great for an every day natural look, such as the model is wearing in the photo. The only downside to this style is it does require naturally long and full brows, because it’s a little difficult to fake the fluffy, unkept look. It just looks a lot more ‘I woke up like this’ if it is your real brow hair. This is, however, the simplest of brow looks. It requires 1 to 2 products, depending on your brow thickness. If your brows are sparse in some areas, use a pencil to fill those areas in using hair-like strokes – I love the Sephora Collection brow pencils for this because they’re surprisingly pigmented. Next, take a clear brow gel, I love the Rimmel London Brow This Way clear gel, and plaster all of your brow hairs upwards strategically. We want this to look messy, but like, perfectly messy…basically, keep in mind the line between natural, fluffed-up brows and a leaf blower to the face. If your brow hairs are difficult or grow straight down like mine, you can always try the hairspray/soap technique instead of gel; spray hairspray or rub a dry bar of soap on a clean mascara wand and then brush your brow hairs up. The sticky hairspray and the waxy soap work a little better than gel, but unfortunately for me my brow hairs do not cooperate even with these techniques.
The straight brow is one that I used to wear a lot, and is very popular in Korean makeup for a youthful, innocent look. For this style of brow, you kind of need a relatively straight brow to begin with. You don’t need a completely flat brow, but minimal arching is best (just try to imagine making a straight brow out of a brow that has a high arch, such as the Instagram style pictured above – the bottom can easily be made straight by connecting the front to the tail in one straight line; the problem is, the top cannot be flattened out. You would have either a straight bottom with a high arch, or a really thick brow to compromise the height of the arch at the top). So, to achieve the straight brow you can use a dipbrow-style product or a pencil, depending on your natural brows and how bold you want your brows to be. If you have sparse brows with an undefined shape, dipbrow might work better. If you have a fuller brow with a distinct straight(ish) shape, a pencil will do the job. All you’re going to want to do is connect the front of the brow to the tail in one straight line. From there, create a parallel line on the top of the brow until about the outer corner of the eye (as pictured above). Then, just connect the tail. This style of brow works great if you have a naturally shorter brow because a straight brow that is too long can begin to look unnatural. I would probably ignore the “brow guidelines” for this style and try to make this brow a little shorter than what is recommended in the chart.
The natural brow can mean many things (hence why I attached multiple photos). A natural brow can be the naked brow, as it is, no makeup. It can also be as simple as combing some clear brow gel through the hairs to keep them in place. A natural brow can even go so far as to include some filling in with a pencil or a powder. A natural brow is taking what you were given and either leaving it as-is, or using a product, not to change it, but to enhance it. The products and procedures used to create a natural brow will vary depending on what your natural brows need. If you have been blessed with naturally full, thick brows (@ my friend Laura, you beautiful browed bitch), just let them be! Tame them with some brow gel if they have a mind of their own and like to wander. If your brows are sparse or unshapely, use a light hand and a pencil or powder to gently create some shape and fullness – be gentle with it though; leave some gaps, try not to overdraw too much or be too precise. It’s not supposed to be perfect! This style of brow goes well with natural makeup of course. If you plan to do full glam, a natural brow might throw off the look. I recommend a light tinted moisturizer, some mascara, and maybe a clear or tinted lip balm/gloss. Sometimes enhancing your natural beauty is all you need.
Brows, boom, done. As always, show the idiot some support by scrolling to the bottom of the page and following my blog! It means a lot to me and lets me know people still read this thing…
Until next time,